the 1,2,3,4 things u need to ensure, when you want to buy GOOD state of the art NEW SUSPENSION:0:00 intro
0:15 the 4 MUST HAVEs
0:58 CHEAPs not possible
1:15 serviceABLE! & material?
1:21 no service4 BRANDED shocks
1:38 pro´s refuse fake brands
1:54 its !NOT HARD!
2:14 which SETTING?
2:30 service INTERVALL?
2:52 FRESHLY produced!
3:28 pro´s FINE setting
3:49 cool looks VS technical BEST
4:11 CHEERS
4:24 GOOD shocks at work
4:33 shock HAND test
SERVICEABLE or not? is the BIG q!
u will find out that a lot of, sadly quite expensive shocks, are not serviceable (??!!!!)
= rather a big waste of money.
1) see if service MATERIAL is available.
2) ask the seller: is it serviceable? & where do i get the needed material?
1+2 not provided = one way throw away shock. no matter price or cool colour
not at all a problem if u buy real brands at the official dealers shop ;)
#scooter #suspension #shocks
no, FMP is not bitubo sponsored. its just reasonable priced good shocks, i like to use.
own experience and info, the 1,2,3,4 MUST HAVEs are copied (beside very logial) its from a suspension pro homepage with 40y of experience. read it up here:
http://www.rmproducts.at/produkte/fahrwerkstechnik/stossdaempfer.html?fbclid=IwAR092E-vqWc5hkrOujBBfr06Uo7UDQySGRnA5kX05AejEAV5WyNZkhDYDhM
#RM #Fahrwerkstechnik: over 40y of #motorbike #suspension #experience speaking, telling us the most important requirements. listen carefully:
(translated from german into english)
After more than 40 years with and on the motorcycle in racing, endurance racing, development and production, a few “musts have " emerged, BASIC REQUIEREMENTS tips for shock absorbers:
1) GAS PRESSURE SUPPORT:
It is essential that a damper has gas pressure support so that the formation of vapor bubbles in the oil (and thus loss of damping) is excluded in the long term under stress! (Important!)
2) THICK DAMPER ROD:
The damper rod (chrome part) should have the largest possible diameter! It's like the forks! In the 70s we drove with # 30-35mm stanchions, today we drive with # 48 and more. The dampers used to be # 10mm, today we drive # 18 and more. Most customers never look at it - unfortunately - large diameters bring considerable stability and thus less wear and thus a longer life of the shock absorber - to name just one important advantage!
3) SERVICEABLE:
Can be dismantled - an important point is ease of service! Can I change the oil, can I fill gas - is it possible to repair it? Can the damper be adapted to my special requests to some extent?
4) DAMPER & SPRING ADJUSTABILITY:
The spring should be as easy as possible to adjust for load or pillion operation! The hydraulic spring preload is ideal for centrally seated struts: here I can adjust the spring preload while sitting on the moped - without clawing under my moped.
- and the damper setting - an important point: if I make the spring harder, my damping becomes relatively softer because the spring then has more power.
The damping should be adjustable several times (at least 3) if possible! Frippery things like high-speed and low-speed are ideal for the racetrack - but too much of a good thing for the holiday track, as the conditions change too often and then fine-tuning is for nothing! An adjustable rebound is sufficient for the streets, because it also changes the compression proportionately due to the design.
So now we know! A damper does not have to cost 1500 euros to be able to do something, the skilful salesman now has a little more difficulty pulling us over the counter. We know what to look out for when we buy a new damper. These are the road requirements. It's different in racing, where we fight for tenths, where high-speed, low-speed, Esa and whatever their names are in demand and very useful - they bring what we are looking for, the famous tenths that are otherwise impossible to find. There the 1,500 euros investments make sense, but here, too, 1-4 should be observed!
R1 - R like racing, here the highest level of durability and adjustability and serviceability is required! Rebound and compression should be noticeably independently adjustable and easily accessible.
R2 - A separate gas tank, if possible with a flexible supply line, should be able to be attached to the motorcycle in such a way that it lies optimally in the cooling flow.
R3 - A hydraulic spring preload is very important!
R4 - high-speed and low-speed are the icing on the cake, but not essential., A damper that is precisely tailored to the customer by the supplier is ideal. A lot of know-how is required here from the supplier. It turned out, for example, that the original dampers from R1 and GSXR1000 / 750 are of very high quality and that with a serious tuning with new pistons, shims, needle valves etc ... you are faster than the yellow springs in comparison, which is quite frustrating for many may be, the relatively high standard of some original products is when you activate the closed options! We at RM specialize in these subtleties!
